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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s top dining spots, one might expect well-known Michelin-starred venues. Yet, situated prominently among these culinary giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant area of northern London.

An Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the city by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has left the owners totally shocked.

“I am totally surprised,” states the family member, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their humble place earning such a lofty ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

This little venue, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the food, and this restaurant more than delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a succulent quality.

It is then thrown into a large pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong slap of taste, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in less syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for below £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not subscribe to that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is paramount is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at fancy restaurants. “I feel truly pleased of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is likely to echo outside its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary achievement.